Restoring a chair presents special problems. The wooden surfaces are covered with old glue and the joints are loose, making it difficult to create a strong bond. And not only must you reassemble the chair parts, the adhesive you use must fill the voids in the loose joints. We test several readily-available glues for both their strength and gap-filling properties. We also investigate several materials made just for chair repair that claim to secure the joints either by filling the gaps or swelling the wood to fit.
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Nick great video but I'm not sure if you noticed but your gauge started out in lbs then jumped to kg at Elmers????
I reglue chair joints for a living. I've been doing it for over 30 years. In your test for all of the glues you used bare wood against bare wood with no clamping. When regluing chair joints you've got joints that have had glue on them when assembled in the factory. The testing that you've shown does not replicate gluing chair joints. Yellow and white glues must have clamping pressure to force the glue into the joints. Yellow and white glues do not work for filling gaps or for joints that have already had glue in them from assembly. Laying boards on each other with no clamping is not how to explain regluing chair joints. For chair joints I use a 2 part epoxy with a powdered filler to give it a thickness. I've glued thousands of chairs with this epoxy and the joints do not come apart. I can't tell you how many chairs have been brought to me by professional woodworkers that have tried several times to reglue the joints with yellow glue. You've done some real good table saw videos, but sorry, this video does not explain how to reglue chair joints properly.
I would have been curious of how PL would work
can you please make a video on how to make horse saws, thanks
had you thought of the old casein glue yes is water mixed but wow know it holds well, takes time to dry, and does usually need pressure but not always just a thought, we used it in the joinery shop way back when along with hot hide glue for windows and doors on the tenons along with wedges ,when cramping with the joinery clamp
Truly outstanding!
Great commentary and presentation!
Nice test, but most glues have to be clamped to get tight fits. Try the test again, but employing a method of applying a standard clamping force. I was a little disappointed that you did not explain whether you were using bottled hide glue (or heated vs. room temperature) or actually using the correct ratio of hide glue "pearls" dissolved in a quantity of water for a few hours, then heated to a constant 140 F until it was at the proper consistency for application. Your idea of using the threaded rod as a spreader is great for getting an even coat of glue. Your production quality is also amazingly good. Thanks for making these very helpful videos, and consider taking a look at the Project Farm channel on YouTube to see how a Missouri farmer develops and applies excellent testing procedures to all types of glues, oils, tools, wrenches and other common products most of us use frequently.
Any suggestions on just covering the surface and filling gaps (with something clear) that’s easy to use?
I've dragged hundreds of chairs out of trash piles and repaired them to give away later. People use all kinds of dumb ideas to try to fix them from nails and screws to duct tape to even Scotch tape. Sometimes I even have to drill out the original mortise and insert a matching piece of dowel glued in and fixed in with wooden wedge then redrill when the glue sets and start over with the hole.. Easy to get creative when it's free furniture.. No returns so far..